Nail care is important for many reasons – not just for improving the appearance of our hands and feet but also for reducing the risk of infection and injury. Although some people spend lots of time and money on ensuring their nails look perfectly manicured, it can equally be an area of self-care that is overlooked  – either all the time, or even between salon visits. 

Our blog looks at how you can use aromatherapy oils at home to protect your nails and improve their condition.

The structure of the nail

Our nails (and hair) are known as ‘skin appendages’ as they are made from skin cells. The bit that we typically think of as our nail is called the ‘nail plate’. This is about 0.5mm thick and comprises mainly of a hard substance called keratin (a protein made from dead skin cells). The nail plate is firmly attached to the ‘nail bed’ which lies beneath. The nail is surrounded by the lateral nail folds on the left and right and the proximal nail fold at the base. The cuticle is a thin layer of skin that grows over the nail at the proximal fold, where the nail tucks into a pouch of skin called the matrix. The small, half-moon shape that we can see at the base of the nail is the visible part of the matrix and is called the lunula (after the Latin word for small moon). The matrix is the area that produces the new skin cells (keratin) that make our nails grow. Fingernails grow on average 3mm per month and toenails grow a little slower (approx. 1.5mm per month).

Factors affecting our nail health

The rate at which our nails grow and other nail characteristics partly depend on our inherited genes. Other factors include our age (nails grow slower as we get older), diet and general health. 

Similar to our skin, changes in nail condition can be an early warning that something is wrong in our body and affecting our ability to produce healthy cells, A change in nail colour, dents, ridges or slow growth could for example be caused by a medical condition, poor nutrition or excessive stress.

One common cause of slow growth and discolouration is a fungal infection. This may also cause the nails to grow thicker. If the nails are growing slowly but are normal in colour it is probably an indication of a nutritional deficiency – particularly a lack of quality protein in the diet. High stress levels can also slow nail growth or cause them to temporarily stop growing. 

Other abnormalities in the appearance of our nails that can be useful to recognize are:

• Brittle nails/pale nail beds can be an indication of lack of Iron (anemia), Essential fatty acids (very common in a typical Western Diet), Vitamin A and Calcium. It can also indicate poor circulation, Kidney or thyroid weaknesses.
• Horizontal ridges can indicate damage to the nail bed following an injury, chronic stress with the resultant B Vitamin deficiency, or thyroid issues.
• Vertical ridges again indicate lack of iron or general poor health.
• Cracking/peeling nails indicate low protein, Vitamin A, possible deficiencies in Calcium and other trace elements, such as Silica.
• Pitted nail texture can be caused by psoriasis or a deficiency of folic acid and iron – it is particularly important to take note of if you’re looking at pre-conceptual care.
• Blue nail beds are usually an indication of lower than normal oxygen in the blood stream – caused by chronic lung problems or heart issues.

Caring for our nails 

Proper nutrition and good nail care are important factors in maintaining healthy nails. 

Eating for healthy nails

The rate at which your nails grow, and the quality, texture and shape of them, is hugely influenced by nutrient and protein levels in your diet. 

• Eating enough protein is essential for boosting keratin production and maintaining strong nails. Low protein intake may cause weaker nails. Try eating fresh fish regularly which is an excellent source of protein and is highly digestible.
• Eat 6 portions of fresh vegetables daily – including nutrient rich avocado 2/3 times a week.
• Increase your intake of zinc which helps with the growth and division of cells within the body including the nails. Animal proteins are a good source of zinc, but it can also be obtained from chickpeas, nuts and seeds.
• Increase your intake of essential fatty acids which help lubricate and moisturize your nails and give them and a shiny appearance. A lack of EFAs can contribute to dry, brittle nails. Good sources are oily fish and seeds such as Hemp or Flaxseed.
• Ensure you’re getting sufficient magnesium, a mineral that is involved in protein synthesis, which is required for healthy nail growth. Good sources are whole grains (especially whole wheat), almonds, cashews and dark, leafy greens.

Aromatherapy for healthy nails

There are several carrier oils and essential oils that can be helpful in supporting the nail bed, matrix and surrounding skin which can help to promote healthier and stronger nails. 

Just like the rest of our skin, our nails need moisturisation too. If the skin around the nail is dry, it often means that the nails will also be dry and brittle. And, if the skin gets too dry, it can crack and become susceptible to infection. Dry skin around the nail bed or matrix can also damage the nails as they grow.

To help keep the skin around the nail soft and to prevent chipping and breaking simply massage in few drops of carrier oil each day paying particular attention to the cuticle. The cuticle plays an important role in protecting the nail matrix as it seals in moisture and prevents germs getting in. Cuticles get dry just like other parts of our skin, so it is essential to keep them moisturized.

As well as moisturizing the massaging action will also stimulate the flow of blood, oxygen and nutrients to the nail which can encourage growth.

Recommended carrier oils that are rich in nutrients and essential fatty acids include unrefined Avocado and Wheatgerm, Argan, Macadamia, Hemp Seed, Jojoba, Rosehip Seed, Borage Seed and Vitamin E.  

You can also give your nails a further boost by blending your chosen carrier oil/s with essential oils which can help fight infection, support skin cell renewal and stimulate the circulation. Benzoin, Elemi, Frankincense, Lavender, Lemon, Myrrh are all popular choices. Simply add 1 drop of essential oil per 5ml of carrier oil.

Here are some recommended blends to try:

Nail & Cuticle Conditioning Oil

For a nourishing, moisturising nail oil mix 50/50 Borage Seed Oil and Vitamin E and massage into the nails and cuticles on a daily basis.

Nourishing Hand & Nail Cream

You could also make up this rich hand cream that can be used throughout the day – again making sure that you massage it down into the cuticles. This blend includes essential fatty acid and nutrient rich oils, plus circulatory boosting oils which are great for peripheral circulation.

Mix 50ml Moisturising Cream, 5ml Argan Oil, 5ml Jojoba, 5ml Hemp, 5ml Macadamia, 4 drops Benzoin, 4 drops Ginger, 4 drops Patchouli, 6 drops Sandalwood and 6 drops Geranium. 

Whitening Paste

If your nails are discoloured from wearing nail polish, try this whitening buffing paste which will also help stimulate the circulation.

Take a tbsp of Moisturising Cream and mix in enough Kaolin Clay to make a paste that is the texture of buttercream. Add 5 drops Lemon essential oil and 2 drops Benzoin and gently buff into the nails before rinsing clean.

Fungal Nail Treatment Oil

If you have a fungal infection, early intervention is key. Massage this aromatherapy blend into your nails, cuticles and under the nail tips daily. 

10ml Argan oil, 5ml Jojoba, 5ml Macadamia nut oil, 10 drops Tea Tree and 5 drops Myrrh. 

Other nailcare tips

• Water can weaken the nails so make sure you always dry your hands properly after washing them and wear gloves when washing up or cleaning to protect against damaging chemicals.
• Try to give your nails a ‘breather’ and take breaks from using polish, gels or artificial nails. Always opt for acetone-free nail polish remover.
• Don’t bite your nails.
• Never cut or pick at your cuticles as it can break that important seal of protection and leave you vulnerable to infection.
• Don’t pull off hangnails as this may rip healthy skin and cause bleeding, pain and infection. Always remove them carefully with sterile clippers and use moisturizer to prevent them occurring in the first place.
• Be wary of aggressive manicure techniques in salons that may actually weaken the nail and contribute to infection.