We all know that the sun can be dangerous for our skin but there's still a fascination, in western cultures, with getting a ‘tan’. There is just something about having a tan that makes us feel more attractive, healthier and vibrant. When we look good, our self-esteem is boosted, and we feel better about ourselves. We might also feel physically better too, as spending time in the sun helps our body to produce Vitamin D. 

Vitamin D plays an important role in maintaining healthy muscles, bones and teeth, regulating our mood, boosting our immune system, fighting disease, and helping with energy metabolism. Although we can get Vitamin D from our diet, most of us don’t eat enough of the rights foods to get as much as we need, so spending some ‘safe’ time in the sun can help our bodies produce this essential vitamin.

Enjoying safe sun exposure

So how do we get enough sunshine to boost our Vitamin D, without risking sun damage. According to the NHS website we can get enough Vitamin D from short bursts of sun exposure from late March/early April to the end of September. This involves exposing our forearms, hands or lower legs without sunscreen, ideally between the hours of 11am and 3pm. There are many factors that can affect how Vitamin D is made, so it is not known exactly how much time is needed in the sun to meet our body’s requirements. Experts estimate that anywhere between 9 minutes of midday sun for lighter skin, up to 30 minutes (or even longer) for darker skin should be adequate. Midday is thought to be the best time as UVB rays are at their strongest which means we need less time in the sun. Studies also show that our body is most efficient at making Vitamin D at this time of day. 

As advised by the NHS it is best not to wear a sunscreen for these short periods of time as it reduces the capacity of the skin to produce Vitamin D. Research shows that a sunscreen with an SPF (sun protection factor) of 30 will reduce the body’s ability to synthesise the vitamin by 95-98%. Extreme care should be taken however to ensure that we don’t burn while our skin is unprotected. 

The dangers of sun exposure

So, when spending time in the sun a balance needs to be struck, because as we know, too much exposure can significantly damage our skin. Not only does it dry out our skin and deplete its natural supply of lubricating oils, but it can also cause sunburn, sun damage (e.g. uneven skin tone, freckles, age spots, solar keratosis), premature ageing, and increase our risk of skin cancer. 

In order to protect our skin from sun damage it is best to limit our time outdoors, cover up with suitable clothing, seek shade and regularly apply a sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or above.

Are sunscreens safe?

While the general advice is to wear sunscreen to protect the skin, concerns have been raised over some of the chemicals that the creams may contain. There are essentially two sorts of sunscreens. 

• Mineral sunscreens which use zinc oxide and titanium dioxide to physically block/deflect UV rays. These two ingredients are recognised as generally safe and effective. These tend to sit on the skin and can leave a visible white residue. 
• The second type uses chemical blockers which soak up UV rays. These are easier to rub in and are absorbed into the skin without leaving a residue.

Although there is no firm evidence as yet that these chemicals are unsafe, FDA testing (published in The Journal of the American Medical Association) has shown that six common sunscreen chemicals are absorbed into the body and can linger for days or even weeks at levels beyond the FDA’s ‘threshold of concern’. Previous studies have also indicated that some of these ingredients can disrupt hormones, and may lead to issues with fertility, poor birth outcomes for babies and even cancer. In addition to this they have also been shown to contribute to the destruction of coral reefs – a problem so serious that sunscreens containing these ingredients are now banned in certain holiday destinations and natural reserves.

Again it seems like we’re a stuck between a rock and a hard place – a bit like the conundrum of ensuring we get enough sun for our Vitamin D, while not damaging our skin. The advice is to apply sunscreen, yet these may contain potentially harmful chemicals!!!

So, what do we do? The most obvious choice if you’re looking to avoid chemicals or if you have sensitive skin, is to choose a mineral sunscreen with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide (both of which are natural minerals from the earth). It is also good to look for products that contain natural antioxidants (e.g. Vitamin E, Raspberry Seed oil, Wheatgerm, Green Tea) which are great SPF supplements. A sunscreen won’t block 100% of damaging UV rays, so antioxidants can help reduce free radical damage caused by any UV radiation that sneaks through your sun cream.

Natural oils with SPF

There is much information online regarding natural oils that are thought to have SPF, again, further research is really required before we would advocate using any of these oils in place of a properly formulated and ‘tested’ sunscreen. Nevertheless, it is interesting to review the research that has taken place so far.

Oomah et al (2000) found that Raspberry Seed Oil offers comparable protection to titanium dioxide against both UVA and UVB with an SPF of 28 to 60 for UVB wavelengths and 6.75 to 7.5 for UVA wavelengths. [1] 

A study by Niculae et al (2014) also found that adding Raspberry Seed Oil and Rice Bran oil allowed them to reduce the number of synthetic chemicals needed in a commercial sunscreen. It also improved the UV absorption rates and antioxidant activity of the product. [2]

A later study by Montenegro in 2019 also supported the hypothesis that including suitable vegetable oils (Pomegranate Seed oil and Shea butter) in sunscreen formulations could be a promising strategy to design products with a lower content of organic UV-filters. The study  [3]

Kaur et al (2010) evaluated the ultraviolet (UV) absorption ability of a selection of volatile and non-volatile herbal oils. The non-volatile (fixed) oils offered the best protection with Olive oil and Coconut oil having the highest SPF of around 8. Out of the volatile oils, Peppermint essential oil had an SPF of around 6.5. [4]

An in-vitro study by Suryawanshi published in 2016 found that Wheatgerm had an SPF of 22.4, Carrot Seed oil 18.8, Olive oil 9.2, and Jojoba 6.02. [5]

A study by Mishra et al (2012) reported that Calendula flower oil in a cream formulation had an SPF of 14.8. [6]

The above research is certainly promising, and many companies are including natural oils to enhance their sunscreen formulations. There isn’t sufficient research yet however to indicate that these oils are safe to use on their own for sun protection. If you would like to use any of these oils, we’d recommend applying them under a mineral sunscreen where they will help to moisturise and provide additional protection for your skin. 

Aromatherapy oils for after sun skincare

You can also use natural oils to re-hydrate and replenish your skin after sun exposure. Whether you’ve got a little sun burned (hopefully not) or just want to counter the sun’s drying effects, there are so many wonderful oils to choose from. Here are lovely blends to try…

Moisturising Bath Oil

Fill a pop sock with a cup of oats, tie securely and place in the bath while the water is running. Keep squeezing the sock to release all the lovely moisturising and anti-inflammatory oat milk. Mix 15ml Sweet Almond Oil (take care this will make the bath slippy) with 2 drops each of Ylang Ylang, Patchouli and Geranium essential oil and swirl into your milky bath water. 

Soothing Aloe Vera After Sun Gel

Mix 80ml of skin soothing Aloe Vera (fabulous for after sun skincare), 5ml Vitamin E oil, 5ml Calendula oil, 20 drops of Lavender essential oil, 5 Yarrow, 4 German Chamomile and 2 Spearmint. Store in an airtight jar and keep in the fridge.

Soothing After Sun Moisturiser

80ml Organic Moisturising Cream, 10ml Raspberry Seed oil, 5ml Avocado oil, 20 drops Lavender essential oil, 8 Roman Chamomile, 4 Spearmint and 4 Yarrow.

Replenishing After Sun Body Oil

Mix 30ml Calendula infused oil, 6 drops Rose essential oil, 4 drops Lavender and 2 drops Frankincense.

Replenishing After Sun Facial Oil

20ml Peach Kernel Oil, 5ml Jojoba oil, 5ml Raspberry Seed Oil, 4 drops Geranium essential oil, 4 Lavender, 3 Frankincense, 1 Neroli and 1 Rose.

Natural Tan Booster

15ml Aloe Vera & Seaweed Gel, 5ml Peach Kernel oil, 4 drops Bergamot (not FCF), 4 Patchouli, 3 Lemongrass. Warning: Do not apply to skin before direct exposure to sunlight.

Click here for more summer skincare blends and read more about the dangers of phototoxic oils.

References

[1] (PDF) Characteristics of raspberry (Rubus idaeus L.) seed oil (researchgate.net)

[2] Rice bran and raspberry seed oil-based nanocarriers with self-antioxidative properties as safe photoprotective formulations - Photochemical & Photobiological Sciences (RSC Publishing)

[3] (PDF) Use of Vegetable Oils to Improve the Sun Protection Factor of Sunscreen Formulations (researchgate.net)

[4] In vitro sun protection factor determination of herbal oils used in cosmetics (nih.gov)

[5] In-vitro determination of sun protection factor and evaluation of herbal oils

[6] Assessment of In vitro Sun Protection Factor of Calendula Officinalis L. (Asteraceae) Essential Oil Formulation - PubMed (nih.gov)